It has been one heck of a winter so far on the Oregon Coast with a number of big storms marching through with the holidays, knocking out the power in both Tillamook and Clatsop Counties and making us all remember why the climate here is classified as a temperate rainforest. The darkest night of the year was two weeks ago, on December 21, and so, the optimist in me would like to point out that we have already gained an extra ten minutes of daylight with sunset currently happening at 4:42 PM.
This is the thing about moving to the Oregon Coast, the days get short and wet in the late Fall. SAD is real and you need to invest in marine grade rain gear to walk on the beach during the winter. Many of my neighbors in Cannon Beach who are second home owners come right before the 4th of July and leave at the first sign of rain in the forecast in mid October.
Just imagine all the fun they miss! Which leads me to the topic of this blog post, what is there to do on the Oregon Coast when the days are short and you want to stay dry and warm?
First things first, you have to get creative and find joy in small things. At least that is what works for me.
This region is funny in that you have to cultivate a "do it yourself" mentality. If you wish there was some kind of activity that you don't see in your local community, it might just be for you to create it yourself. This winter, I have been teaching a drawing class to teens at the Tolovana Arts Colony for just that reason.
Anyway, beyond relearning the fundamentals of one point perspective drawing, one of my favorite things to do is hop in the car and go to Astoria, our beloved port town on the mouth of the Columbia River. Astoria offers plenty of ways to pass the time with small eateries, big breweries and at least a dozen galleries to discover.
On work days, I like to post up at one of the many cool coffee shops with my computer to feel the creative buzz of caffeine and take in the ambient noise of people meeting with old friends, new lovers, traveling partners... Top on my list is Coffee Girl, which is located on the North end of town on Pier 39, one of few remaining piers over the Columbia River that houses an eclectic mix of businesses. Originally built in 1875, Pier 39 is a testament to Astorias rich history as a fishing hub, it even has a small museum that showcases artifacts from the cannery days including old fishing boats from the Bumble Bee Fleet.
Coffee Girl still houses the original lunch counter that was used when the cannery was in full swing which is just part of the charm. The vibe is PNW vintage meets 90s Riot Grrl with black and white photos on the walls of the women cannery workers. The views beyond the steamed up windows are of the giant container ships waiting for their turn to move up or down the Columbia River. It is a writers dream.
Another favorite spot of mine if I want a bite to eat is Blue Scorcher Bakery, a worker owned cooperative with amazing bread and a small menu featuring vegetarian fare. Located on the corner of 15th and Duane Streets right up from downtown, the space has a communal vibe with an area for kids to hang out and play and a selection of magazines for sale. It shares the block with what has become an iconic cornerstone business in Astoria, the Fort George Brewery.
The Fort George Brewery was started by two local brewers with a dream, Chris Nemlowill and Jack Harris, who had the vision to see a different future for Astoria back in 2005, when many of the downtown commercial buildings were abandoned and occupied by pigeons instead of businesses. Together, opened the doors of the Fort George Brewery + Public House in 2007.
From October through May, Fort George hosts a free community education series in the Lovell Showroom. Thursday Talks feature presentations from a rotating group of local organizations, if you are looking to check it out; January 23, 2025 at 7 PM there will be a presentation Ed Joyce entitled Nature Matters: Coastal Dynamics and the Columbia River Estuary examining the geological features of the Oregon Coast including plate tectonics, followed by a presentation by Nathan Stacey, OSU Small Farms Extension Specialist; Soil, the Silent World Beneath our Feet on January 30, 2025 at 7PM.
For something a little less intellectual, there is Skate Night at the Astoria Armory on Friday and Saturdays from 5-8PM with a $4 entry fee / $4 to skate rental.
In between rainstorms, there is the picturesque River Walk; or, for some cardio, you can pick a side street downtown and start walking up hill and discover the charming residential neighborhoods. Just about any street between 8th Avenue and 14th avenue will reveal a treasure trove of Victorian Era architecture; Queen Annes, Craftsman, Italianate and more. If you are looking for something a little more formal, The Lower Columbia Preservation Society, offers a series of self-guided tours.
There are of course lots of other cultural activities as well. I love the Second Saturday Art Walks which happen year round, from 12-8 PM. Artists gravitate to this region, and so there always new work to see and often new galleries to find in the downtown area. Amongst my personal favorites are Imogen Gallery, founded by Teri Sund, who is a well versed curator of contemporary art in the Pacific Northwest. The gallery features a new show monthly with a great mix of artists working in all media; including marble sculpture by MJ Anderson, large format photographs of the sea by Corey Arnold and the abstract paintings by Astoria based artist, Darren Orange. For fans of Black and White Photography, check out Lightbox Photographic which also does a top notch job of featuring rotating monthly themed exhibits. Lightbox also has an upstairs members gallery featuring the work of Jody Miller and Julie Moore amongst others.
February brings both the Festival of Dark Arts at the Fort George Brewery, a sold out event on February 15, 2025 (apparently tickets go on sale on Black Friday if you want to plan ahead for next year) and one of the most lively events of the year happens, The Fisher Poets Gathering, February 21-23 which features a plethora of talented fishermen and fisherwomen singing in verse, and reciting a mix of poetry and verse. It is a very eclectic gathering of talent that reflects the raw power of working on the mighty Pacific Ocean for a living and is true to the grit of Astoria's past as the salmon capital of the world.
The iconic Liberty Theater, which is celebrating its 100th year, hosts a variety of musical events throughout the year, along with dance and comedy nights. A side note, my grandmother, Anne Mace, was an usherette at the Liberty Theater in the 1940s when she was in high school in Astoria, I love to imagine her in an usherette uniform as a young woman.
In closing, while the pace of life is a lot slower on the North Coast and the rain is a real phenomena that is not to be underestimated ... you can still get out and paint the town red. In the off-season, some of the hotels even have local discount stays (currently both the Cannery Pier Hotel and Bowline Hotel have a locals special rate), so you can always make it a stay-cation. I will cover some of my favorite restaurants, like Fede, in a future post.
In the meantime, Happy New Years! May you find many adventures locally or wherever your heart may lead you in 2025!
